Ina's Outrageous Brownies

Since we're in the season of sugar, butter and cheer, I'm thrilled to share another much requested favorite with you, and be warned -- it's deliciously naughty.

I like the Barefoot Contessa for many reasons, from her no-nonsense approach to cooking to her deep appreciation of simplicity and quality ingredients. Did I mention her adorable husband, exquisite taste and home in the Hamptons? Yes, it's good to be Ina Garten.  

These brownies can do no wrong. I've made them countless times and still haven't come up with a single edit. Go ahead -- indulge.

INA'S OUTRAGEOUS BROWNIES

Ingredients:

1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter
1 pound (16 ounces), plus 12 ounces, semisweet chocolate chips
6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
6 extra-large eggs, at room temperature (NOTE: Any other size egg will ruin this recipe. Trust me. Been there.)
3 (heaping) tablespoons instant coffee or espresso granules
2 (generous) tablespoons pure vanilla extract
2 1/4 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
3 cups chopped walnuts


Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Butter and flour your 12 x 18 x 1 inch baking sheet. It's an unusual size, but critical for the recipe. They can be found at most kitchen stores.  

In a double boiler, or in a medium bowl placed over simmering water, melt together the butter, unsweetened chocolate, and 1 pound (16 ounces) chocolate chips, stirring occasionally, until smooth.
NOTE: Chocolate seizes when it comes in contact with water, so be sure the bowl is larger than the pan you're using. 

Unsweetened chocolate, ready for greatness.

The prettiest little make-shift double boiler there ever was.

Allow the melted chocolate/butter goodness to cool slightly.

In a large bowl, stir together the eggs, coffee granules, vanilla and sugar. Slowly stir the warm chocolate mixture into the egg mixture and allow to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, sift together 1 cup of flour, the baking powder and kosher salt. Fold into the cooled chocolate mixture.

Toss the walnuts and remaining 12 ounces of chocolate chips in a medium bowl with the remaining 1/4 cup of flour, then fold gently into the chocolate batter. As with all baking recipes, avoid over mixing. 

Pour batter into the prepared baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. At the 15 minute mark, rap the baking sheet against the oven shelf (or my preferred route, counter top) to force any air in the batter to escape. Bake for another 15 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. These are dense, moist brownies! Be careful to not over bake! 

Serious sheet pan for seriously good brownies.  

Allow the brownies to cool on the counter, then refrigerate overnight. The recipe claims to make 20 large squares, but you can easily feed more with this recipe.


Originally published online: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/ina-garten/outrageous-brownies-recipe3/index.html 

Karbach Brewing Co. & StickIt Food Truck

Rodeo Clown Double IPA
Karbach Brewing Co.
Houston, Texas

It serves me right. Just as soon as I defiantly declare Texas beer unable to stand up to my much beloved Great Lakes, the universe sends me straight to Karbach Brewing Co. and I stand pleasantly humbled, beer in hand. I won't mourn the loss of Shiner once back north given the greater access to craft brews (more on that later), but Karbach's Rodeo Clown Double IPA and Hopadillo? An enthusiastic "YES! Must I be forced to live without this?!" from this little lady. 

Karbach Brewing Co. is a year-old Houston craft brewery whose construction wrapped up and doors opened for brewing on August 8, 2011. The company took the name Karbach thanks to its address -- 2032 Karbach Street -- but also due to the history of the warehouse, the location of the owner's former distribution company he had to close to follow his dream of operating a craft brewery.

Let's talk Texas law.

Under the 21st Amendment, regulation of alcohol sales is given to individual states.  Since the repeal of Prohibition, alcohol is sold through a three-tier distribution system (manufacturers, distributors and retailers), intended to prevent breweries from controlling or unfairly influencing retailers and therefore limiting consumer choice. The cost of these precautionary measures include a 20-25% mark-up and undue influence on distributors given to big-business-beer companies, making it a challenging system for small, craft breweries to break into in a place like Texas.

How has this affected the craft beer industry here? Craft beer sales account for only 0.4% of the Texas beer industry, compared to 4% nationwide. I'm not claiming to know more than the above, but it's pretty clear Texas isn't a craft-friendly state. (Each time I mention hailing from Ohio to a bartender or Karbach tour guide, I'm met with envy over the freedom Ohio distributors and craft brewers have). Which brings us back to Karbach, which opened after "Mr. Karbach" chose to give up his successful distribution company to follow his tasty, hoppy dreams.

Back to the beer.

Visiting the brewery for a tour has got to be one of the best deals in town. For $7 you're given an 8 oz. "Drink Beer and Carry On" glass and four (4) tokens for the Karbach brew of your choosing. Even better? You can upgrade to one of their specialty glasses for $12 - $15, including a pilsner, Karbach pint glass, snifter (see mine pictured above), or weizen glass and take advantage of those same four tokens/person. (If you're going to conquer the tokens, bring someone along to get you home).

Their canning/kegging operation. 

Karbach's distribution doesn't extend outside of Houston - currently, what you see is what you get. 

Cyclists cooling off in their storage room. 

Like many craft breweries, Karbach is busy experimenting with finishing their beer 

in wine and bourbon barrels, to no doubt yummy results. 

Food truck time.

In addition to beating Texas temps and enjoying cold craft beer, my true mission of the day was accomplished: eat at StickIt Food Truck, conveniently parked next to the entrance of the brewery. Score.

Food trucks are all the rage these days, from reality TV shows on FoodNetwork and the Cooking Channel to a veritable fleet roaming the streets of every major city, selling everything from barbecue, tacos and fresh sushi to cake balls and waffles.

StickIt didn't disappoint. Their menu featured the following, with each entree served with fries or rice:

          GRILLED BEEF TENDERLOIN - chimi aioli, grilled zucchini, roasted peppers, and fresh chimichurri

          KOREAN BBQ PORK BeLLY - marinated veggies, sweet chili crema, sesame, scallions

          BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN - white pepper gravy, cheddar cheese, and sweet/spicy corn salad

          BEER BATTERED FISH - hand cut fries and malt vinegar aioli

          FUNNEL CAKE BATTERED BRIE CHEESE - blackberry compote and powdered sugar

We opted for the Korean BBQ Pork Belly -- because who can say no to pork belly, really? -- and the Beer Battered Fish. 

Surprisingly, the fish won. Maybe I haven't tried enough fish n' chips in my day, but it was THE BEST beer battered fish I've ever had. Seriously! Hot. Flaky. Fresh. Moist. Flavorful. Look at it! It's gorgeous! There wasn't enough malt vinegar aioli to go around (probably because it tasted good on everything), and the fries weren't anything special, but that delightful fish on a stick still crosses my mind now and then. 

The pork belly was disappointingly tough but still had that fatty, porky flavor we all love. The rice was the perfect accompaniment to the marinated veggies, sweet chili crema, sesame, and scallions.  

Overall, another winning weekend on the growing list of the Texas culinary adventures. Eat up! 



Interested in reading more about the companies and products mentioned above? 

Shiner Beer: http://www.shiner.com/main.php
Karbach Brewing Co.: http://www.karbachbrewing.com/home
StickIt Food Truck: http://stickitfoodtruck.com/
Great Lakes Brewing Company: http://www.greatlakesbrewing.com/home
Texas beer laws: http://blogs.dallasobserver.com/cityofate/2011/05/hophead-itorial_why_the_craft.php

White Bean Ragout with "Toast"

Another gem to come out of this Labor Day weekend has been a 2012 Bon Appétit Test Kitchen recipe that utilizes an Italian soffritto, or a mix of chopped aromatics. You'll only be using a half cup of the almost two cups this recipe produces, so I'd recommend either freezing it in preparation for your next sauce or soup, or adding it to just about everything for a next few days. (Ours has gone into a panini with mozzarella and basil and on eggs so far). 

The name of this recipe is misleading in that I can't say toast appeals to me unless I'm post-stomach flu and in search of the bland. Broth, anyone? Instead, the recommended preparation calls for sliced ciabatta, rubbed with garlic and sprinkled with parm before crisping in the oven, or per my preference, brushed with EVOO before grilling and rubbed with garlic post-grill. Either way, it's not your mama's toast. 


WHITE BEAN RAGOUT WITH TOAST

Ingredients:

3 medium onions, chopped (or 2 large onions)
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup EVOO, plus more as needed
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper
4(+) garlic cloves -- 3 finely grated, 1 halved
2 teaspoons tomato paste
4-6 1"-thick slices grilled or toasted ciabatta (a better estimate is two slices per person)
8-10 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan, divided
2 15-ounce cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed and drained
4 cups vegetable broth, divided (or chicken broth)
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Directions: 

Pulse onions in a food processor until finely chopped but not puréed (you should have about 2 cups). Transfer to a medium bowl. Pulse bell pepper in processor until finely chopped but not puréed (you should have about 1 cup); add to bowl and mix well.

Two large yellow onions, post-food processor.

Shout out to my sous-chef/editor/hubby.
Also, food processor = best thing ever.

Heat EVOO in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion mixture carefully and season with salt and pepper. Sauté, stirring often, until vegetables are completely softened, about 30 minutes. 

The soffritto at the end of 30 minutes.
You'll need to stir almost constantly  for the last 5-8 minutes.

Add finely grated garlic (I used 4-5 cloves) and tomato paste (go for a TBS) and cook, stirring often, until tomato paste begins to turn deep red, about 3 minutes. Measure 1/2 cup soffritto and set aside; reserve skillet. Transfer remaining soffritto to a container and let cool completely, uncovered. Cover and store in refrigerator for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Rub bread slices with cut sides of garlic clove, and place bread on a baking sheet. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon Parmesan over each slice. Toast until cheese begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Set aside. (Alternative: Heat grill to medium-high. Brush the ciabatta slices with EVOO on both sides. Grill, turning often, until crisp and browned around the edges with faint grill marks. Rub cut garlic onto top of each slice and set aside). 

Heat reserved 1/2 cup soffritto and beans in same skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 1 minute. Stir in 3 cups broth and bring to a boil. Simmer, scraping up browned bits, until liquid is slightly thickened, 3-4 minutes. (NOTE: I simmered this for at least ten minutes, perhaps longer). Add tomatoes and remaining 1 cup broth; simmer until tomatoes are tender, 3-4 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons Parmesan, but if you'd like an especially rich flavor (or if you're like me and have four different blocks of parm in your fridge), add up to 1/4 cup. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Divide bread among bowls. Top with some bean mixture and broth. Garnish with Parmesan and parsley. Drizzle with oil, if desired, and serve warm. 

The ciabatta soaks up the beautiful Parmesan broth, and the fresh tomatoes and parsley  make flavors pop. 

Thanks, as always, Epicurious. ;) 

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/White-Bean-Ragout-with-Toast-395436

Grilled littleneck clams & Galveston

It was hard to see August go. The temperatures down south were just warm enough to allow for regular evening swims without scorching anything that ventured out during the day. There were plenty adventures to be had, and our steady stream of visitors continued, not to mention the exploration of both the restaurant scene and just what our kitchen is capable of. Houston's no doubt a big city, but the more I see the smaller it gets.

We made our way down I-45 south late Saturday morning, venturing to see the Galveston coast and explore what the port community had to offer. As it turns out (or rather, so we'd been warned), not too much. Many of the buildings, although historic, looked weathered and often times in disrepair, with the remnants of 2008's hurricane Ike still occasionally visible. The shopping stretch near the cruise ship port was occupied by tourists and locals, spending the afternoon drinking legally on the sidewalks while wandering in and out of kitschy shops and tattoo parlors, and the vacationers killing time before boarding the most recent ship to park itself in the harbor.

IKE WATER LINE, spray painted on a building on the northern side of the island.

Glad to have checked "Visit Galveston" off of the to-do list, we crawled back to Houston through the predictable weekend traffic in plenty of time to collect ourselves and head to Central Market, a culinary wonder and foodie paradise worthy of its own post. (600-some cheeses; 40+ varieties of olives at their olive bar; fresh duck, bison, and quail readily available any day of the week; a fish counter that would make the Seattle fish market blush; and a produce section that would make Leenie proud...)

Last night's dinner was so good we're having it again tonight. Seriously. The white bean ragout with toast will be a year-round winner (and an upcoming post), but get out and grill those littleneck clams while the temperatures are still warm, and a crisp summery white wine tastes especially good (or red if you're feeling Italian). Bon appeitit! 

GRILLED CLAMS WITH HERB BUTTER 

(This recipes claims six servings, but at just four clams a head, I beg to differ. Amuse bouche, anyone? They're petite little things post-grill, so I recommend at least 8-10 per person if serving as an appetizer with grilled bread. The butter goes a very long way, so don't worry about doubling.) 

Ingredients: 

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature (Cold butter? Me too. Microwaving for 15 seconds does wonders).  

(NOTE: I halved the amount of butter called for but kept the herb quantities as-is).  
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon chopped scallion
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

24 littleneck clams, scrubbed
Lemon wedges

Ciabatta, sliced and brushed with EVOO

Directions: 

First of all, grilled clams -- who knew, right? 

Mix the first 5 ingredients in a medium bowl until well blended. Season the herb butter to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

Build a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to high. Place clams on grill rack and cover grill with lid. The recipe instructs to grilling until clams just open, 6-8 minutes, but I'm leaning toward the 5 minute mark, given the clams that opened early were almost tough. 

As an aside, don't be startled if it sounds like like a mini fireworks display inside your grill. However, do open the grill carefully at the end of the 5 minutes. As it turns out, a few of the outer shells splintered from the heat, literally popping. 

Use tongs to transfer to a platter, being careful to keep as much juice in the shells as possible (this is easier than it sounds). Discard any clams that don't open.

Grill the ciabatta, turning regularly until grill marks appear. (HINT: Leave the lid open and keep an eye on the slices, or you'll end up with charcoal toasts in no time flat). 

Dot clams with herb butter; let stand until butter melts. Serve warm with the grilled bread and with lemon wedges alongside for squeezing over.

Didn't like this one. ;)

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Grilled-Clams-with-Herb-Butter-395935

Grilled Pizza

Although there are hundreds of things we've already enjoyed in Houston, I think access to a grill is a medal contender. Cedar plank salmon, corn, peaches, asparagus, burgers, pound cake, tomatoes, pizza, onions and more... Are we in Texas, or somewhere between cloud 8 and 10? 

Speaking of, I'm about to share a few recipes that just might rock your world. To give credit where it's due, I'm happy to say these recipes are à la Al Forno, perhaps the BEST Italian restaurant in Providence. No -- Rhode Island. Ok, maybe anywhere between the Atlantic and Pacific... Quite the endorsement for what you're about to make, no? 

The pièce de résistance? Hot pepper infused olive oil, drizzled on the hot-off-the-grill pie. Cloud 9 it is. 

THE DOUGH

(makes about 24 ounces of dough, or enough for four 12-inch pizzas)

Ingredients:

1 envelope (2 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1 c. warm water
Pinch of sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
1/4 c. johnnycake meal or fine ground white cornmeal (Can't find either? Use regular cornmeal).
3 TBS. whole-wheat flour
1 TBS. EVOO
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 c. unbleached all purpose flour


Directions:

Don't start this this if you're hungry right now. Dial Domino's.

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water with the sugar. After five minutes, stir in the salt, cornmeal, whole-wheat flour and oil.

Gradually add the all purpose flour, stirring with a wooden spoon, until a stiff dough has formed. Place the dough on a floured board and knead it for several minutes, adding only enough flour to keep the dough from sticking.

When the dough is smooth and shiny, transfer it to a clean bowl coated in EVOO. Brush the exposed dough with EVOO to prevent a skin from forming. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm place until double in bulk, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Punch the dough down and knead once more. Let the dough rise again for about 45 minutes. (Didn't I tell you not to make this if dinner is preferred sooner, rather than later?!)

Once risen for the second time, punch the dough down, and divide into four pieces.

(See grilling instructions below).


GARDEN TOMATO SAUCE

Ingredients:

3 TBS. EVOO
3(+) cloves minced garlic
12 - 15 Italian plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped OR 1 28-ounce can of whole San Marzano tomatoes, with juice
Salt & pepper to taste
Optional: chopped fresh basil, or dried parsley, oregano & basil; Some like it hot -- don't be shy with the red pepper flakes, either.

Directions:

(Are you drinking wine yet? Grab a glass). Heat EVOO in a heavy saute pan. Add the garlic and saute until just golden.

Add the tomatoes, and pepper flakes & herbs if using, and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes, or until the sauce thickens.

Add the salt and pepper, and set aside until ready to use, or refrigerate for up to 4 days.


HOT PEPPER INFUSED OIL 

Ingredients:

3 c. EVOO
1/4 c. hot Hungarian paprika
1/4 c. crushed red pepper flakes
3 garlic cloves, peeled and trimmed

Directions:

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy sauce pan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to very low, and gently simmer for 10 minutes.

Remove from the heat and set aside for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to continue to infuse as the oil cools.

Strain the oil into a jar or container. (Straining the oil twice in cheesecloth will remove almost all of the unwanted solids). When it has cooled to room temperature, cover and refrigerate until ready to use. The oil keeps in the fridge for at least two weeks.

NOTE: I typically cut the recipe in half, as a 3 c. oil is more than I can use in two week's time. Also, it you're someone who doesn't mind some extra kick, add an additional TBS. or two of both the pepper flakes and paprika.


IT'S GRILL TIME! + ULTIMATE TOPPERS

Grilling your pizza:

Prepare a hot charcoal fire, building your fire on one side and setting the grill rack 3" to 4" above the coals.
(NOTE: Al Forno recommends charcoal grills because gas grills don't get hot enough and also don't lend as much smokey flavor dough picks up with charcoal. We don't have a charcoal grill -- sometimes a little adaption is unavoidable.)

On a large, oiled, inverted baking sheet, spread and flatten the dough pieces by hand to form 10" to 12" free-form circles, about an 1/8" thick. It's ok to be creative. Just don't make a lip -- that's right. Think consistently-pita-flat, not stuffed-crust.

When the grill is hot, gently lift the dough to the hottest side of the grill. The dough will puff slightly and stiffen within a minute.

Using tongs, immediately flip the crust over onto the coolest side of the grill. Quickly brush the crust with EVOO, and add your toppings (see some rockin' suggestions below).

Gently slide the pizza back toward the hottest side of the grill, but not directly over the heat. Using tongs, rotate the pizza frequently, checking the underside to make sure it's not burning. Your pizza is done when the cheese is melted, appx. 6 to 8 minutes.

Serve immediately, taking it to the next level with a drizzle of hot oil and garnish of chopped, fresh basil.

Toppers -- to infinity, and beyond!:

1. Fontina and fresh buffalo mozzarella cheese, garden tomato sauce, fresh basil, hot oil
2. Mozzarella, garden tomato sauce - grill. Finish by draping the prosciutto over the warm pizza and top with arugula. (Bonus points -- very lightly dress the arugula with EVOO, salt and pepper.)
3. Shrimp (grilled, of course), shallot, pesto and sun-dried tomatoes
4. Wild mushroom pizza with caramelized onions, fontina and rosemary: http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Wild-Mushroom-Pizza-with-Caramelized-Onions-Fontina-and-Rosemary-230633

Grilled asparagus was a rock star addition, not to mention a nice Italian red.
Bon appetit! 

The Land of Barbecue... Right?!

Perhaps, after months of anticipation, my expectations were too high. Or the drive was too long, fighting snarled traffic up north to somewhere between the inner and outer loop while hungry. This post feels blasphemous, before I can even dare peck out the words. After all, I've been in Houston for just shy of a week, and have barely learned my way around the block, let alone the barbecue scene. 

I first read about BURNS BBQ in the archives of one of my favorite Houston food blogs, tasty bits. http://www.tasty-bits.com/. The brisket was declared mind blowing and the ribs were said to be great, although a warning was offered about the mediocre sausage. My memory stirred as I examined Texas Monthly's Top 50 BBQ Joints, where BURNS BBQ sat respectably in the top third of the list. (Check it out here: http://www.texasmonthly.com/bbq/top50). 

But as I read deeper into that list, it suddenly occurred to me that only two Houston joints made the cut. Isn't this city within the borders of the declared national land of barbecue, too?!

BURNS BBQ is an out-of-the-way family owned and operated hole in the wall, bursting with charm thanks to its general lack of it. Painted bright yellow with teal trim, it's an unassuming single-story building on a street that's full of them. Inside, the walls are bare aside from a few magazine mentions (Texas Monthly included), Food Network accolades, and a large poster of how to perform the Heimlich maneuver.

BURNS BBQ
7117 N. Shepherd, Houston, TX 77066
http://www.burnsbarbeque.com/

There were just a few other cars in the parking lot when we arrived, but a steady stream of people in and out the entire time we sat inside. I ordered the 2 meat plate -- ribs and brisket with sauce on, please -- and chose  "lunch" style, which included two sides, baked beans and coleslaw. Classic. (I was happy to try a bonus side when the kitchen accidentally gave me green beans).  


The food arrived neatly packed inside a styrofoam to-go box, with two slices of Wonder bread and pickles packaged in plastic baggies. The ribs were good. Sliced thick and drenched in Burns home-style BBQ sauce, they were not lacking in size and had a thick but pliable outer crust. I can't quite put my finger on what it was missing... that extra tang of vinegar in the sauce? That fatty, drippy, sinfully meaty flavor? Or was I looking for that nearly unattainable "You can only get this in Texas" taste?


The brisket, buried underneath the three ribs, had just a hint of the pink smoke ring Guy Fieri has taught all Diners, Drive-ins and Dives viewers to look for, and was tasty piled on the white bread with a pickle topper for bite. Yet somehow it too was missing that "Crave me every day for the rest of your life" magic. 


The sides. In my opinion, here's a place where a dive and five-star restaurant alike have the chance to shine. They're like the trusty sidekicks -- what Robin is to Batman, or Dr. Watson to Sherlock Holmes. Unfortunately, these felt more like what Palin was to McCain. (Too political...?) Both beans tasted straight out of a can, and the coleslaw was crisp and creamy but desperately needed to be seasoned. We skipped dessert.

BURNS BBQ, up close:
Thick-cut ribs, baked beans, coleslaw and green beans. 

It's far too early in my stay to outright declare Houston isn't a barbecue town, especially since I still need to check out Virgie's (divisive around town in its own right), and Goode Company Barbeque, the local chain. 
IMPORTANT NOTE: I'd be more stressed about this BBQ revelation if every other meal we've had so far hadn't been excellent. We just so happen to be living at the intersection of TexMex and heaven.  


Give me a little time and few more attempts -- both here and in the little towns surrounding San Antonio, Austin and Dallas where the best of the best reside -- and I'll let you know which side the coin lands on. 

Barbecue: food you can have fun eating. :)
Special shout out to my photographer, who managed to capture the poster, too. 

Roasted Strawberry & Buttermilk Ice Cream

Welcome, summer! This nearly two month delinquency has not been from lack of inspiration. It's more like I went to bed on March 31 and woke up on June 1 (insert Texas, class, a gala, a marathon, Rhode Island, a wedding, yoga, and prepping for an itty-bitty move).

Two joints in Houston really wowed me. The first, Torchy's Tacos. I first read about Torchy's on a blog linked to Gourmet's website, and learned all of Houston was celebrating the first H-town franchise. Originally out of a Austin and still operating a location or two out of a trailer, the battle cry for this joint is "Damn Good!" I couldn't agree more. (Confession, foodie friends: we ate here a gluttonous three times in four days. Should you find yourself in the inevitable line, don't forget to order the gauc.)
http://torchystacos.com/

First stop after arriving. Why yes, I'd love to sit on your patio enjoying a Shiner
and the best damn tacos I've ever encountered!

Pondicheri. We read about Pondicheri in Houston magazine, and drove by in a stroke of luck on Friday afternoon. Reservations were immediately made. This female-chef owned restaurant focuses on classic, home style and Indian street foods, with an emphasis on local ingredients. Open everyday for breakfast, lunch and dinner, they also feature a bakery. I anticipate visiting with great regularity.
http://www.pondichericafe.com/web/pondicheri/

There's so much more to share, but let's skip to the good stuff. I don't remember my first bite of Jeni's, but I do know I've sought it regularly ever since. Based out of Columbus, Ohio, Jeni's is an artisan ice cream company focused on flavors, textures, and quality that will make your head spin. It's the genius, gourmet variety of flavors that first caught (and have kept) my attention - Riesling poached pear sorbet, salty caramel, wildberry lavender, backyard mint, goat cheese with red cherries, and mango lassi fro-yo among others.
http://www.jenis.com/

I was delighted to receive a Jeni's Splendid Ice Cream cookbook this spring (thanks, Kel!), and with a pint of strawberries in my fridge begging to be put to good use, Roasted Strawberry & Buttermilk Ice Cream was an easy choice. Indulge!

Roasted Strawberry & Buttermilk Ice Cream 

Ingredients:

Roasted Strawberries:
1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced 1/2 inch thick
1/3 c. sugar
3 TBS. fresh lemon juice

Ice Cream base:
1 1/2 c. whole milk
2 TBS. corn starch
4 TBS. cream cheese, softened
1/8 tsp. fine sea salt (I used popcorn salt)
1 1/4 c. heavy cream
2/3 c. sugar
2 TBS. light corn syrup
1/4 c. buttermilk

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375. Combine the strawberries with the sugar in an 8-inch square glass or ceramic baking dish (note: I used a small rectangular dish that worked well), stirring to combine. Roast for 8 minutes, just until soft. Let cool slightly.

Purée the roasted berries in a food processor with the lemon juice. Measure out a 1/2 c. of the berries and set aside (I'm going to try 2/3 c. next time around). Refrigerate the rest for your own use. (Think yogurt, ice cream, berries, a pancake topper and beyond!)

Mix 2 TBS. of whole milk with cornstarch in a small bowl to make smooth slurry and set aside. Whisk the cream cheese and salt in a medium bowl until smooth. Fill a large bowl with ice and water (this becomes your ice cream's ice bath in about 20 minutes).

Combine the whole milk, cream, sugar, and corn syrup in a 4-quart saucepan, and bring to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 4 minutes, stirring regularly. Remove from the heat and gradually whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil once more, and stir with a heat-proof spatula until slightly thickened, only about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Gradually whisk the hot milk mixture into the cream cheese until smooth. Add the reserved 1/2 c. strawberry puree and buttermilk, and blend well. (Grab a spoon and try it. Trust me.)

  
Pour the strawberry mixture into a 1-gallon Ziploc freezer bag, seal, and submerge into the prepared ice bath. Let it stand for at least 30 minutes, adding ice as necessary. (At this point, we cooked and ate dinner, adding ice only once).

Once thoroughly chilled, pour the ice cream mixture into an ice cream machine and spin until thick and creamy.

Here's where Jeni and I disagree. She recommends packing the ice cream into a storage container, covering with a sheet of parchment paper and freezing for at least 4 hours until firm. I say dig in and freeze what's left. I'll let you decide. :)

A few interesting notes. According to Jeni, strawberry pieces in ice cream don't work. Thanks to their high water content, the berries turn into hard, flavorless chunks. Yuck. As for the corn starch? It protects the ice cream from rouge water particles, sopping them up and thus avoiding an icy frozen mess. (It's especially important to ice creams with water-packed ingredients, like strawberries!)

Chinatown in the Windy City

Last week was a wonderful whirlwind (as is life in general at this point), beginning with a quick trip to the Windy City for McDreamy's interview. It's a long haul from Cincinnati compared to the two hour trek in a packed suburban we'd make when I was younger (oh the luggage!), so our early
evening arrival warrented something walkable & easy.

We ended up at Wave, found just past the lobby of the ever-hip W hotel on Lake Shore. Aside from the pounding club beats and ultra-modern decor, it was quiet -- even for a Monday night -- but to our benefit as we dined on two long, plush couches with a gorgeous view of Navy Pier's glittering ferris wheel. We stuck to their tapas menu and eventually concluded the mezze platter was the overall winner thanks to the silky eggplant, with the scallops, gnocchi and beet salad hot on its trail. Overall, I'd head back for an easy meal assuming we were staying at the W, or perhaps try again on a Thursday or Friday evening.
http://www.waverestaurant.com/

After dropping Ry off (too) early the following morning, I started mine by indulging in a downtown Chicago favorite, West Egg. You just can't top those omelets -- and I'm not alone in my opinion, given the lines that snake down the hallway and out the door on any given weekend. :)

Spending the afternoon with Maki and baby Kai was a highlight of the trip -- oh, and the duck.

My first trip to Chicago's Chinatown was delightful. It's significantly smaller than NYC's and not as compact as Philly's, but packed with charm and hidden gems -- especially the unassuming restaurant we ended up in, Lee Wing Wah. The dumplings were dreamy, fried rice flavorful, spring rolls crispy, and I simply could not stop eating the barbecue duck. Seriously. The skin was paper thin and more crisp and flavorful than any preparation I've had. Ever. The meat was moist and didn't have a hint of the traditional barbecue flavor a Midwesterner would otherwise expect -- think roasted Peking duck. It was heaven... and at the end of the meal, it was very nearly gone.

Maki, the enormous spread, and napping Mr. Adorable. 

Our dining companion, post nap. I can't think of better company (not to mention hair). 

Lee Wing Wah's barbecue duck. Perfection.

Shopping commenced post-lunch to work off a few calories and aside from the usual kitschy clutter and occasional diamond in the rough (who wouldn't want a lucky buddha?!), we stumbled upon a sake shop and each left with a few bottles.

Do I like sake? No. Did I like the salesperson, eagerly showing us the bottles of filtered, unfiltered, sparkling, and flavored sakes? Yes. I'll take three, thank you. MBA lesson in action: Products don't sell; people do.

Note about sake: Sake is typically thought of in most English-speaking countries as rice wine. However, sake is actually produced through a brewing process more like that of beer (wine is produced by fermenting sugar naturally present in grapes). Therefore, sake is technically a rice beer rather than rice wine. Who knew?!

I'm looking forward to our return trip already, whenever that might be. :)

SOLD & Anytime Bruschetta

Easily acknowledged as one of the best weekends we've had in a while, we celebrated a number of small & large victories alike -- the most notable include hitting the 6 mile mark in our Flying Pig training (only 7.1 more to go...) and selling our darling condo. It's been bittersweet getting ready to say goodbye, and in the end we happily settled on a move-out date that will allow us to lock the door, sign a few papers and jump onto I-75 S mid-June.

How to celebrate? Sure, it was St. Patrick's day and there was much green beer available up and down Erie (not to mention our pick of drunk pedestrians to pick off), but we settled on "anytime bruschetta," a favorite we enjoy year-round.

We may have avoided the bar scene, but there was still Guinness to be had
and green to be worn.

Bruschetta typically conjures images and tastes of summer: sun-ripened tomatoes, fresh basil from the backyard garden, good EVOO, garlic, grilled bread... and yes, that simplicity of fresh ingredients is perhaps one of the best ways to enjoy the dish. But, what happens when the craving strikes for a simple, flavorful and fresh meal outside of the months of June, July & August?

I love this dish's versatility. Start with a fresh, good-quality baguette, sliced on a bias, crisped in the oven and rubbed with garlic. From there, the possibilities are endless. Have a cheese or two handy (whole-fat ricotta and Parmesan are my favorites), prosciutto, and simply-dressed arugula. Roast tomatoes or eggplant (or both), and caramelize some onions. Hummus and tuna sing together (Ina Garten has a recipe I adore: http://www.theculinaryenthusiast.com/2011/05/09/tuna-hummus-sandwiches/), sliced steak is great...

Use your imagination! You can't miss.


Anytime Bruschetta

Ingredients & Directions: The Basics

1 french baguette (or any favorite bread), sliced thin, brushed with EVOO and baked in a 400 degree over until crisp and golden, appx. 7 minutes. Once cooled, rub the top of each piece with a garlic clove
Prosciutto (available at any grocery store, or sliced fresh at Findlay Market or Hyde Park Food & Wine in Cincinnati)
Ricotta (go full-fat; it makes a world of difference in the taste and texture)
Garlic, whole cloves
Arugula tossed with lemon juice (or red wine/champagne vinegar), EVOO, salt and pepper

Gorgeous.
Sticking with the basics can be just as satisfying as any add-ons mentioned below.

Ryan's Roasted Eggplant & Tomato Spread
Credit given where credit is due -- Ryan came up with this delicious recipe, now a "usual" for us in the anytime bruschetta rotation. The eggplant gets silky at the high roasting temp, and the tomatoes become caramelized and sweet.

Ingredients:

1 medium eggplant, diced
Tomatoes, fresh (slice a cup or more of cherry tomatoes, or a dice 2-3 romas)
EVOO
5 garlic cloves, smashed
Rosemary, fresh -- appx. 5 springs
Kosher salt

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 425. Dice the eggplant and tomato, and arrange in a single layer with the 5 crushed garlic cloves on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Season with kosher salt and cracked pepper and let rest for 15 minutes.
Drizzle with EVOO and toss to cover. Lay the roasted springs evenly throughout the pan. (They'll breakdown as they bake).

Bake for 25-30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, discard the tough rosemary stems and let cool. Use a spatula to gently mash the spread and stir to combine.



Caramelized Onions

Ingredients:

2-3 onions, sliced very thin
EVOO
Unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Fortified wine - Marsala and Port both work beautifully (optional)
1/2 tsp. fresh thyme (optional)


Directions:

Heat 3 TBS. of EVOO and 2 TBS. of butter in a large, heavy skillet oven medium heat. Add the thinly sliced onions and stir to coat the onion. (Don't worry about a crowded skillet - they'll cook down).

Add a pinch of Kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper. Turn the heat to medium-low. (Low and slow is the best way I know of for caramelizing the onions). Saute the onions, stirring every 8-10 minutes, loosening any bits that stick to the bottom of the pan.

As the onions begin to caramelize, you'll need to start stirring them more frequently to keep them from burning. (This whole process can take up to 50 minutes. Be patient; they're worth the work.)

When the onions have reduced significantly and are a rich golden color, add a splash of the fortified wine to deglaze the pan. Toss in the fresh thyme and serve.

NOTE: Caramelized onions go well in MANY dishes -- pizza, pasta, grilled cheese sandwiches, omelets, salads.....

Saturday night's Anytime Bruschetta paired brilliantly with my glass of chardonnay
and Ryan's Guinness!

Pho: A contribution to human happiness

"Pho was very special, almost status food. We loved it because it had everything we valued -- rice noodles, broth, meat and vegetables. It was complete, nutritious, infinitely delicious and yet so easy to digest that we could eat it morning and night, day after day.''
-- Huu Ngoc, a prolific author and cultural expert; has written that pho is a contribution to human happiness

There's little else we find such pleasure in than a steaming hot bowl of pho. The embodiment of goodness... Seriously.

Pronounced fuh, the traditional Vietnamese soup arrives in an enormous bowl brimming with the rich beef broth, delicious notes of ginger and anise, rice noodles, fresh onions, and a protein of your choice: thinly sliced rare beef  (the traditional choice, which cooks to perfection in the piping hot broth) chicken, brisket, meatballs, or pork. A small dish of bean sprouts, jalapenos, a fresh lime wedge and additional fresh herbs, typically basil and cilantro, is served on the side. Some take advantage of the bottle of Rooster sauce on the table (Sriracha), fish sauce, hoisin, and if you're really lucky, chili paste.

The dish originated in northern Vietnam in Hanoi and reportedly has both Chinese and French influences (i.e. they both occupied the country for significant amounts of time), although the Vietnamese made it their own. The dish spread south along with the northern population in the 1950's as the country came under communist control. We're fortunate the Vietnamese comfort food later traveled across seas with Vietnamese immigrants, and we too can now enjoy this contribution to human happiness.

Here are a few of our all-time favs, in no particular order (I'm optimistic this list will grow as our adventures continue... I've identified what's supposedly the best pho in Houston, and we'll be able to confirm the rumors by about this time next month.):


1. Cilantro Vitamese Bistro - 2516 Clifton Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio

This is hands-down our favorite place for a quick fix, and one we've been frequenting with increased regularity. They don't have a website but can be found on Facebook. I've tried a few of their other dishes, but the pho shines in comparison. We typically start with a "fresh roll" with peanut sauce, but it's largely to keep us distracted while we wait for the server to arrive cautiously balancing the bowls.

It's definitely a hole in the wall and parking can be a challenge since it's on University of Cincinnati's campus, but we've never run into a wait -- or more importantly, a disappointing meal.


2. Pho Lang Thang - 114 West Elder Street, Over-the-Rhine's Findlay Market, Cincinnati, Ohio

Visit them online at http://www.pholangthang.com, or better yet, in person. I recommend visiting this bustling restaurant on a mild Saturday afternoon when the market is buzzing. Get there early as they've been known to run out mid-afternoon. You'll leave with a happy belly and likely an armful of groceries, too. (It has to be said: you'll also leave smelling like the stuff. The pho is absolutely fantastic, but we'd be there with more frequency if they had a better ventilation system.)

If you're not feeling like tackling an enormous bowl of soup, go for the bánh mì thịt nướn (Vietnamese sandwich) or the bún. It's hard to miss here.

That's right. Ryan likes pho enough to rock that t-shirt.
How I love this man.
Pho Lang Thang, January, 2012

3. Pho Ha - 610 Washington Avenue, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

A former co-worker, originally from Philly, made some terrific recommendations when we visited the historic city in the spring of 2010, including where we could find what he considered the best pho in the city. He didn't lead us astray. We walked for well over an hour to find this little gem, and we arrived at the end of a strip mall and next to a Vietnamese grocery store, hungry and optimistic.

It was authentic. It was wonderful. I want a bowl of their pho right now. I dream about the day we have the chance to make our way back -- it'll happen. Someday.

Philly pho. I'm glad I've been in the habit of snapping photos (discretely, of course)
of our food for a while now. ;)

Craving this stuff now? Me too. For a quick pho fix, I found this recipe for 'Faux Pho' on Bon Appetit's website and couldn't resist posting the recipe. (I have yet to try it, but will give a report when we do).

Faux Pho (image courtesy of Bon Appetit)
Bon Appetit, December 2011                                     

Ingredients:

• 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
• 1/2 small onion
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 3x1" piece peeled ginger
• 2 1/2 cups low-salt beef broth
• 1 whole star anise
• 1 3"–4" cinnamon stick
• 4 ounces (2 cups) mixed mushrooms (such as oyster or stemmed shiitake), thinly sliced or torn
• 1 scallion, thinly sliced
• Kosher salt
• 2 packages instant ramen (preferably not fried; noodles only) (SERIOUSLY, Bon Appetit?! Ramen?! I'll use rice noodles when we get around to making this)
• 1 1/4–1/2-pound piece beef eye round, sliced crosswise 1/8" thick
• Bean sprouts, basil leaves, and thinly sliced serrano chiles

Directions:

Heat oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add onion, cut side down, garlic, and ginger. Cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden, 3–4 minutes.
Add 1 1/2 cups water, broth, star anise, and cinnamon; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer until flavors meld, 7–8 minutes. Add mushrooms; simmer 2 minutes. Add scallion. Season with salt.

Meanwhile, boil ramen (or the rice noodles!) until tender but still firm to bite. Drain; divide among bowls.

Add beef slices to soup; simmer until just cooked through, about 20 seconds. Using tongs, transfer beef to bowls.

Discard ginger, garlic, star anise, and cinnamon; ladle broth into bowls. Garnish with bean sprouts, basil, and sliced chiles.

Read More http://www.bonappetit.com/recipes/quick-recipes/2011/12/faux-pho#ixzz1oYupnqou

Pork Scaloppine with Marsala & Porcini

After an eventful weekend that included one plumber, two panicky homeowners, two canceled showings, two surprise potential home buyers shortly thereafter, a very brisk "wog," and a jaunt to Yellow Spring to dine at The Winds Cafe with good friends, a quiet Sunday evening featuring a few new recipes from our Williams-Sonoma Rustic Italian cookbook seemed the perfect way to welcome a new week and bring the old one to a close. 


Ryan outfitted for our wog (occasionally jalk, depending on the day).
4.3 in 75 minutes -- we're improving! :)

We settled (over our breakfast, no less) on trying Scaloppine di Maiale con Porcini (pork scaloppine with marsala and porcini), paired with Saute di Cavolo Nero e Ceci (spicy sauteed kale and chickpeas). While the lacinato kale and chickpeas were gorgeous and healthy to boot, there wasn't much else noteworthy about the dish. The pork, however... that's a different story.

I loved the method of cooking the rosemary-garlic-salt paste in the hot oil and then adding the unseasoned (gasp!) medallions. Once the meat is finished and removed from the pan, the leftover oil, paste and drippings make for the base of a light, flavorful sauce.

The end result is as pretty as it is tasty, and paired nicely with a Bordeaux. I'd serve this dish with the addition of lentils or wild rice next time... and yes, there will be a next time. :)

Scaloppine di Maiale con Porcini

Pork Scaloppine with Marsala and Porcini

Ingredients: 

1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms (or any dried mushroom you prefer -- confession: we actually used shitake based on what was available at the store), steeping in 1 c. boiling water for 30 minutes

1 TBS unsalted butter

1 TBS EVOO

1 clove garlic, crushed in a garlic press (or minced)

Fine sea salt (or Kosher will happily do the trick) and freshly ground black pepper

1 tsp. minced fresh rosemary, plus springs for garnish

1 pork tenderloin, 1-1.5 lbs, patted dry and cut cross-wise into scaloppine 1 inch thick

1 small red onion, finely chopped

NOTE: Stores often sell two tenderloins packaged together, often around 2.5-3 lbs. Your butcher should happily separate the two, giving you the appropriately sized cut. 

1/4 c. dry Marsala wine (available in any grocery store - if you can't find it, ask)

1/2 c. chicken broth

Directions:

Get ready for your kitchen to smell fantastic. 

 

Drain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms and set aside. 

 

In a large frying pan, melt the butter and EVOO over medium-low heat. In a small bowl, combine the garlic, 1 tsp. salt, and rosemary and mix into a paste. When the butter is melted and beginning to sizzle, add the garlic-rosemary paste to the pan and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about two minutes. 

 

Arrange the pork medallions in the pan and raise the heat to medium-high. Grind pepper over the pork and cook, without turning!, until lightly browned on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook until lightly browned on the second side, 3-4 minutes longer. Transfer the pork to a warmed plate and tent loosely with foil to keep it warm. 

 

Add the chopped onion to the pan and cook, stirring often, until it just begins to soften, 3-4 minutes. Raise the heat to high and stir in the wine. Let it bubble for about 1 minute, then add the porcini broth and chicken broth. Add the chopped mushrooms and cook at a lively simmer until the liquid has reduced by about half, about 3-5 minutes. 

 

Taste the sauce! If you like a sweeter dish, add some more marsala. More salt? Go for it. 

Plate the scaloppine and spoon the sauce over. Garnish with rosemary sprigs and serve. 

Saute di Cavolo Nero e Ceci

Spicy sauteed kale and chickpeas

Ingredients:

 

3 large garlic cloves, chopped

1/4 c. EVOO

1 lb. lacinato (dinosaur) kale, tough middle stems removed, leaves and tender stems coarsely shredded

1 can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

1 sm. fresh hot chile, seeded and minced, or a generous pinch of dried red pepper flakes

Fine sea salt (or Kosher salt)

Directions:

 

Prep the ingredients -- a pound of kale takes longer than expected to prepare. (I started cooking leisurely around 8 and we ate around 10).

 

In a large frying pan over medium-low heat, warm the garlic in the EVOO, stirring often, until softened but not browned, 5-7 minutes. Put 1/2 of the kale in the pan, or as much that will fit without spilling. Wilt for 2 minutes and add the remaining kale.

 

Using tongs, turn the greens to coat with the garlic and oil. Cover the pan and cook until the kale is tender, 15-20 minutes.

 

Uncover and stir in the chickpeas, chile and 1/2 tsp. salt. Raise the heat to medium and saute until the chickpeas are heated through, about 5 minutes. 

 

Taste it! You may want more heat or salt. Toss in some pepper. Enjoy this dish's simplicity.